Mumbai is burning! he said as he poured himself another drink. We were at a local bar in Andheri. There was a television mounted high up on the wall behind the manager's counter. It was showing a report on Kasab's trial, when this person on the next table started staring at the television with a rage. Most of the others in the bar ignored the guy because he was inebriated. But this was not just another drunk guy. The guy was in late 50s, with half of his hair turned gray. His face had a character grown in it with every wrinkle on his face trying to tell a story. A story that turned that night into a dead silence.

'Calm down uncle. Don't worry. Kasab will get a death sentence.' I said in a friendly voice to calm down this drunk man who I thought could have created a scene. He turned his head towards me and looked straight down my eyes, with an anger. That really gave me shrills for a second. Why did I take this on to me? I thought. 'And then what? Will Mumbai stop burning?' I took a while to understand the question. It seemed like a rhetoric, but this guy was waiting for a response. Besides, Mumbai was burning a year ago when Kasab massacred innocent people at the Taj Hotel and other areas in town. 'I am just saying ...' I was interrupted before I could finish. He got up and moved next to my friend on the opposite side of our table. For the next half an hour we were just the audience to a drunk man, with a heart full of pain, frustration and anger and a growing rage towards this city of dreams.

Mumbai has been burning for a while now kid. And it wasn't Kasab who started it. And it's not ending with his death sentence. Mumbai will continue to burn. You know why? Because we can't do anything about it. And even if you try, they will not allow you. [laughs sarcastically]

'Mumbai is burning! Nana, Mumbai is burning! And the Muslims are around the corner killing every Hindu they find. They are coming to kill people in our chawl!' My younger brother came running with this news after the 1992 blasts. I was quite young then, with warm blood running in my veins. I went down with many other young men from our chawl like soldiers on a mission to guard our families. It was the worst war of religions Mumbai had faced since 1947. We were around 25, each equipped with a hockey stick or a cricket bat. We stood by the gate of our chawl creating another wall. I could still feel the adrenalin when I think of that moment. Just then we heard screams from around the corner. We all stared down the road expecting the worst. And worst it was. A man tumbled and fell down near the corner. As he fell down, his head separated from his body and rolled down right in the center of the lane. My hands went numb. Suddenly the weapons in our hands, hockey sticks and cricket bats, seemed meager. We felt weak. Three of the guys ran away, while a couple of them went back in the chawl and came out with knives, hammers and spades. We were still weak in front of the swords. They killed six of us before the police arrived. But their lives did not go in vain. We managed to hold back the mob and keep our families safe. I lost mine though. My brother. He took the blow from the wildly swung sword of the leader of the mob, Abdul Qadir, brother of the then corporator. It slit his throat and the blood came out rushing like a tap left open. He could not scream and I could not help. Within moments his body went pale leaving him dead in the pool of his own blood.


Few days later, I filed a case against Abdul Qadir to get justice for my dead brother. Nothing happened. He was saved. You know by whom? A Hindu! A fucking Marathi Maanus! A minister who got the case closed for a few seats and Muslim votes that were assured to him by Abdul's brother. That's when I realized it wasn't a war of religions, it was a war for powers. Abdul is an MLA now. I feel like killing myself whenever I look at his posters by the road side.

I somehow managed to pull myself out from the dreary memories of those bloody events. I had two beautiful kids. Tanmay and Sakshi. Tanmay has grown into a man now, just like me when I was young, with warm blood. Sakshi [his voice sunk] she was an angel. Beautiful as her mother. She had just turned 18 that day when she went out for a party with her friends at Juhu. The girls were returning back home when they noticed a bunch of guys were harassing a girl in a secluded lane near the beach. The girl seemed from a rich family. Sakshi along with her friends walked into the lane keeping a safe distance from the scene so that if the guys made a move towards them they could run away. She screamed 'Hey! Leave her alone! I have called the police. Go away! Leave her!' What she didn't realize that a part of the gang was standing and entrance of the lane, from where she walked in, keeping a watch and looking out for trouble. They had moved in now blocking their way out. They started screaming out loudly and soon started crying. There were bystanders, and they did their job. By being just the fucking bystanders. Sakshi was brought home by the police, clothes torn and dried blood on her legs. All the girls were raped that night.

We filed a case against the guys, all the guys the girls could recognize. They were all sons of big-shots from Mumbai's richest lot. They all got bailed out. The cases were closed due to no evidence. You know who saved them? The girl who was being raped initially, who Sakshi and her friends tried to save. You know why? She was the daughter of another big-shot who totally put the case under covers without letting her daughter's name out in public. Like it never happened. As if his daughter was never raped. [snaps his fingers] It was that easy for him. But what about my daughter? Who would marry a raped girl from a middle-class family? This thought tortured and tormented my child every day after the incident until one day she decided to put an end to it. She walked down the same lane where she was raped, and she kept walking. She kept walking until she met the sea, which grabbed her into it's depth with a huge roaring wave.

The next day, my hands started shaking as I covered my child with logs of wood. It's not easy to light your loved ones on fire even when they are dead. I could not believe my family was halved in one day. We were four before, now we were just two. Yes, just two! My wife couldn't bare the shock of her daughter's death. She died of a massive heart attack as soon as the news was delivered to us by the police that our daughter's body was found by the shore. I couldn't believe half of my family was watching the other half being burnt to ashes, helplessly. It was devastating.

Since last few years, it's just been the two men at home now. I have learned to cook and so has Tanmay. But he prefers washing the dishes as he doesn't want me to do that work. He is my only hope and the only reason to live for. He doesn't like me drinking, but he doesn't stop me too. He knows ... I know.

[looking at the television in anger] We were at Colaba, feet away from Leopold when this motherfucker blew it up. We ducked down hiding ourselves behind a street-side handcart. Tanmay peeped out from one side. Two guys had flung a couple of grenades into the restaurant and had now ran up the stairs into the restaurant firing rounds of bullets blindly. He turned to me and said 'Anna, they are killing people there. They've blown up the place. They are burning Mumbai Anna! Our Mumbai is burning! We need to help them.' My eyes were wide open with shock, terror and fright. I looked at Tanmay. His eyes had the same rage of a warrior, as I had back in 1992. I held his hand as tightly as I could. I could feel the warm blood rushing through his body. If I let him go now, I might not see him again, just as my other family members. I was weak now. I would not be able to take another ruthless blow from life.

My feet went numb and I was drenched in sweat. My arms started shaking as I held on to his arm and started crying. [a tear trickled down his face as he narrated] 'Let it burn son! Let it burn!'.

4-4-2-2-4-4-2-2 ... That's Meru!

This birthday, I had decided to treat myself in a lavish way and so, for the first time, I decided to go to my aunt's place in a Meru cab. Anticipating the meter fare to go somewhere in the range of 600-700 bucks, I was carrying cash in surplus of two thousand bucks with me.
I called up the Meru Call center at 1315 hrs and booked a cab for 1400 hrs, which arrived a good 15 minutes before time at the spot. That's where I started liking the services. As I got into the cab, I got many more reasons to prefer this services over a normal cab, cool cab or any other cab from a similar service provider (Mega Cabs, Easy Cabs, etc.).
As I entered the cab, the first thing I notice was the printed pledge along with the driver's identity on the dashboard. I read through the list and cross-verified it at the same time.

The Pledge:
  • I will drive carefully
  • I will not drink and drive
  • I will drive within speed limits
  • I will be alert at all times
  • I will keep my car clean and tidy
  • I will be well groomed
  • I will charge the customer as per the meter
  • I will not smoke and chew pan/gutkha inside my cab
Apart from these, the chauffeur should also know how to speak, read and write in English. Pretty impressive that the chauffeur, Mr. Anwar Azad, passed with a ten-on-ten.
This made me curious to know how Meru functions, leading to a series of questions to Mr. Azad, which ended with a conclusion as to how Meru's modus operandi creates a win-win situation for Meru, the chauffeur and the customer.


Advantage Meru

Meru has a simple rule. Each chauffeur will pay 850 bucks per day to Meru no matter what. The cab can be used in two ways: 1. By taking the bookings made via the Meru call center and 2. If no bookings are currently allocated, then the chauffeur can pick up any one on the road in need of a Meru cab or any previous customer that call him at that time. But whatever the case may, the chauffeur gets a booking or the cab is empty the whole day, he has to pay 850 bucks to the company. Besides, a security deposit of R 10000 is collected from every chauffeur. Furthermore, the chauffeur is also penalized for not abiding to any of the points mentioned in the pledge.

So how does this work out for Meru?
  • Meru has more than 1400 cabs within the boundaries of Mumbai and Thane; i.e. 1400 X 850 = R 11,90,000 per day and R 3,57,00,000 per month.
  • Meru has a single office in Mumbai (2 floors in Mind Space, Malad West) that comprises of the 24X7 Call center and the Chauffeur Training center.
  • Meru has a maintenance center in Kandivali east.
  • Meru earns huge amounts from advertisements pasted on the cabs.
This means that the profit Meru has a constant profit margin and this is not dependent on the number of bookings it gets per day/month. It has a fixed amount of expenses too, which helps maintain the profit margins.


Advantage Chauffeur

The chauffeur has to take care of the following expenses.
  • Paying Meru R 850 per day
  • Gas refills for the cab
  • Any expense on keeping the car clean
The maintenance of the car is taken care by Meru.
After hearing this, initially I got the thought that the chauffeur would hardly be saving anything. But Mr. Azad told me that after taking out the above expenses from the earnings (an average of R 1500 daily), he can still manage to save 12000 to 15000 bucks per month, which is twice the average salary you get as a driver in Mumbai.
Apart from that, there are many other advantages that keep the chauffeur happy.
  • The car remains with him and he can use it for his personal purposes (Meru is only concerned with 850 bucks per day)
  • He and his clothes remain clean and fresh throughout the day
  • He gets to use the luxury of air condition. And since the windows are closed, he doesn't get any health problems from dust and pollution
  • He just has to log off from the company's system, when he wants to use the car for his own purpose
  • Since he is driving a nicely maintained air conditioned cab, he earns respect, which is generally not given to a black-n-yellow cab driver.

Advantage Customer

The most basic necessity of a customer in this case is timely service, and a Meru cab has to be the obvious choice over all the other cab services for the following reasons.

Size does matter:
Meru has more than 1400 cabs in Mumbai itself that cover Mumbai, Thane, Navi Mumbai and the outskirts like Karjat, Pen and Alibaugh. Mumbai has over 2000 kms of road. This means, on an average, there is one Meru cab at every 1.5 km. This makes it possible for the cab to reach in 30 minutes after the booking. Moreover the large number of cabs increases the probability of finding an available cab for your booking.
The competitors are not even close to the count. Mega Cabs has around 500 cabs and Easy Cab has hardly touched the count of 300 cabs.

Fair Fare:
The meter charges for a Meru cab are R 20 for the first kilometer, and R 14 for every subsequent kilometer. These rates are same across the other private cab service providers.
However, if you think a Cool cab (Blue and Silver) is cheaper, the you are terribly wrong. Cool Cab charges a fixed price to travel between two points. For example, the charges from Borivali to Dadar are R 600, whereas if you take a Meru, it would hardly go beyond R 400. What's more is that even our normal black-n-yellow cabs are expensive for long distances. These cabs charge R 16 for the first 1.6 kms, and R 17 for every subsequent kilometer.

Comparison Chart:
Here are some of the facts of different cab services for your comparison. Facts speak for themselves.
When I was inquiring for this information at their respective call centers, everyone was friendly and open enough to give out the information, except for Mega cabs. Here is the conversation I had with their representative, mind you, some senior executive.

Me: Hi, I need some information about Mega cabs.
Exec: Yes sir, where do you want to book the cab for?
Me: No. I just want some information regarding your services.
Exec: Sure sir, go on.
Me: Can you tell me the approximate count of cabs you have in Mumbai?
Exec: Eh ... Actually sir we cannot give you that information. It is against company policy.
Me: As a customer, I am trying to find out the best cab services for me, for which I need this information to make a decision. Don't you think it would help your services grow too?
Exec: Yes sir, but it is against the policy. We are not authorized give out this information.
Me: Ok. Can you find me a person who is authorized to provide me this information.
Exec: No sir. It is against the policy.
Me: What? Finding an authorized person is against the policy?
Exec: No sir. Giving information.
Me: Ok. Can you give me your Chairman's name?
Exec: No Sir. Against company policy.
Me: Even the chairman's name cannot be given out? Are you running some kinda CIA services?

There are some upcoming features in Meru that will make it more convenient and luxurious for traveling: Credit card payment and music system. Some cabs have this already in place. The others will be ready soon, that too, at the same cost.

So, in conclusion, Meru prevails as the best cab service in Mumbai.

I rest my case!
My friends are going to laugh at me when they read this saying 'Oh No! Not Again!'

I know you want me, You know I want you ... That was the kind of confidence with which I walked towards her. But as it has always been the case, and no matter how cool I suppose to be, I am not cool in such situations. The words leave my dictionary, my mouth is like a drought affected land, my tongue is way back in my mouth speaking to my tonsils and my bowels go missing somewhere behind my intestines. I've been so ... always!

It's sad! Really sad! And what's surprising is that I can flirt with many other girls. But when it comes to this one special girl who has pressed the right buttons on my telephone (no pun intended) and made a connection, I am dumbstruck. I have been fortunate in the past to have girls in my life despite this disability. But I don't think I have done enough good things in life that god will be that graceful again.

Here is my situation. There is a girl I met recently and I can't (rather I won't) take her out of my head. I don't know what really clicked for me, but it was probably the way she dances. Wow! Like a Greek goddess. You, you and you too, should just watch her dance once. It might seem that I am being pretty shallow, and probably I am, but consider the fact that I have known her since just a few months, so I do not know much about her. I really have no clue if she is the girl I want to bring into my life. But I wish to explore that horizon and find it out. This time, more in depth study, 'coz I don't wanna hit the ground face first, again. How? I have no damn clue!

I was speaking to one close friend today and she tried giving me ideas to strike a conversation. And now I know that I wasn't that close to this close friend of mine. I didn't know that she didn't know that the ideas she gave me are not to attract girls but to drive them away by giving an impression that I am an orthodox, narrow-minded person. Let's just leave it to that without discussing her ideas. So here I am again, trying to find ways to meet her, to talk to her, to know her better.

Does this girl like you? Well, not quite sure. I have tried to give her subtle innuendos whenever we have met (even when we met the first time), however I don't know if they were conspicuous enough for her to pick them up, though I fancy my chances and I like to believe that she did.

So far the status quo is that it's 2AM, the sleepless eyes are wide open, yet dreaming of her dancing in her own sensuous way, and I try to push things on tomorrow. What I am afraid of is what if tomorrow never comes and I never get to say it to her. Hopefully I'll end my quiet-until-she's-gone mode and express what I feel for her, soon.

I'll do it girl! I'll find a way to you, if it kills me! ... No, I did not say the last part. I take it back ... I'll just find a way to you somehow :P


Hello All,

This mail is addressed to a few chosen ones, who have similar beliefs and opinion about this stinking part of the corporate world.
And if you differ, please ignore the mail. :)

I have seen eight inglorious years at Patni, from 2003 to 2010.
I was surprised to learn that even companies grow like human beings, from a fetus to a baby, a baby to a toddler, a toddler to a teenager, a teenager to an adult, an adult to an aged.
But I didn’t know then that even companies can catch a cold, or in extreme cases, a plague or a cancer. Yes! It is true. I have seen the rise and fall of Patni.

I have seen the PMS when it was a windows based application, before it was shifted online to ePMS.
I have seen people eLearning, then changing the PACE to keep up with the competition.
I have seen people LEAPing and LEANing, trying to PROPEL towards a higher goal.
I have seen people being lured into the so called glamour of the MS degree, who later realized that it was just the cheese hooked to a mouse trap.
They even put in lot of thoughts and iDEAS, but were slammed down in Talent Review and Appraisals. The KNOWLEDGE was good when it was at the CENTER. Now it is hardly XCHANGEd.
Patni did show some concern towards its employees by saying E-Care, if not I Care.

Then the light dawned upon them. They realized we need to do something else to keep our name.
Let’s bring a radical change, a change that will keep the employees wondering for some time.
And until they realize that the change is going to take them nowhere, we would have survived through the tough times.
So they TRIMmed the SDLC and came up with Patni PLUS. As the name suggests, it just PLUSed my already existing templates.

During the world wide slow down, Patni decided to make another announcement, this time a much bigger radical change … iChange!
The employees kept wondering for a long time what good is this change going to bring them now.
All the higher level organization structures were dismantled and reinstalled. The employees kept looking with their eye balls popped out and jaws dropped.
The changes at the top seemed like a tsunami wave growing bigger and bigger, adding to the excitement of the employees.
But as the wave came closer, it suddenly calmed down as a tamed pet or the waves hitting the mangroves hardly allowing them to reach the thirsty shore.

Patni has been trying to ECO-TRACK this ecological change. But the termites have reached the darkest corners and the deepest roots and I don’t see a chance of survival.

Last year, we had no choice but to live suppressed, coz it was your day.
This year, we have the chance to raise our head to the sunlight, above the garbage we have been buried under for years.
This year, I have realized I need to change …
And that’s why iCHANGEd!

I see the corporate world as a world full of Tamatar-walas.
The tamatar wala keeps showing you different tamatars, each looking nice and juicy from outside.
It’s when you reach inside, you get the real taste.
I don’t deny that some were indeed tasty inside, but that is a rare case.
For a long time, tamatarwala keeps bargaining and at the same time doesn’t let you buy tamatar from any other tamatarwala.
But you need to realize that bargaining is not the way to live, you’ll die hungry.
You need to buy some tamatar finally. If not from this tamatarwala then from some other one, but you need to eat.
And That’s it! I am hungry and I need to eat, and this tamatarwala is not giving me tamatar.
So I am changing my tamatarwala!

Don’t take it personally. It’s business!
All the best … to me and to you!


With no emotions at all.

From,
A hungry stomach and a wrecked up mind.

I Am Just Not Into You Anymore

I never thought this day would come this soon in our lives. I still remember the day we fell in love, we kissed each other at that very moment. It seemed like two bodies in a desperate need to touch each other, feel each other, be with each other. And since then you were there with me whenever I felt lonely or overjoyed, happy or sad, or sometimes when I felt nothing at all. When we were apart, I could feel you looking at me at every turn in my life, waiting for me to feel your need, hold you and then kiss you a thousand times. And I would give up myself to your mesmerizing beauty, hallucinating scent and soft and silky touch.

Remember the countless parties we went to? You would never let me leave you. In fact, I too, never wanted to do that. I didn't care what people watching us said about us, I still went on kissing you. We felt like the only two souls in the world, with no one to watch us, no one to stop us. It was like a dream, just a cloud of smoke all around us, the world becoming blur behind the smoke and the only thing we could see was just each other. We didn't stop even after coming back at home from the party. We kissed and kissed and kissed again until we went to sleep. We were so used to each other that we both thought that this wasn't an affair anymore; we had found a lifetime companion.

But deep down somewhere we both knew, that it wasn't meant to be. Many of my friends always kept telling me I am making a mistake, It's not gonna make me look better, What do I see in you, What do I get from you, and what not. Some even said that you would suck everything out of me and then leave me with no hope but to die. But, I never believed anyone. May be I was deeply in love with you, or may be I was just another idiot, just another stupid person who loved you unreasonably, ignoring the facts that were visible to his eyes.

Yes, I loved you! I loved you too much to care about anything else. Whenever you looked at me, I felt you realizing that I had an undying love for you. It was true. It was true until a month back. And I owe this to my friends. My friends who have been with me since my childhood, since the time we knew only Math and Science and nothing about love and companionship. I had ignored many of them since I met you, ignored every warning they gave me about our relationship. But now I regret. I regret betraying my friends' trust in me that I would always do the right thing. I regret fighting with my friends over you, which might have given them a wrong impression about me to an extent of losing them as a friend. My deepest apologies to all my friends. I am really sorry for whatever happened. And I am grateful that you all were there for me during my bad times. Thank you, my friends, for pulling me out of this deadly relationship.

I have realized that Love is not blind, it turns you blind.

It's been a month now that I have not thought of you as I did before. It was a very rough time for me to get over you. Until recently, I thought about you every single moment. I wanted to smell you again, feel you again, taste you again, kiss you again, be with you again. But now I am at a point where I should have been a long back. It's time to face the reality, that we both were not meant for each other and some day it had to end. And that day is today. I am happy that I am not into you anymore. I am over you!

I hope you find another idiot to love you just as I did. And I am sure, with your sensuous beauty, you'll definitely find one.

All the best Classic Milds! I'll see you around.

Good Bye!

Sunrise at Kunjapuri

The next morning's plan was to wake up at 0400 hrs and go up the Narendranagar hills to Kunjapuri Temple (a.k.a. Kuchchapuri Temple). Why? For A) It is one of the highest peaks (1645 meters above sea level) surrounding Rishikesh from where you can see Rishikesh, Haridwar and Dehradun, and B) It gives you the most spectacular view of the sunrise. And indeed it was. We were expecting the sun to come out from behind the mountains. But, it's always the case that clouds form a band where the sky touches the mountains. Hence, the sunrise, that is the first rays of sun, is seen when the sun is at a good height in the sky. It's wonderful to watch how the night colors of the sky change to the daylight colors, and the rays tear apart the clouds and pierce through them to make their way towards the earth.


There are other reasons why this temple is famous, and these would really interest you.
1. It is one of the twelve sacred temples called the Shakti Pith (where your wishes come true)
2. It is Sati Devi's temple (consort of Lord Shiva)
3. This temple has the chest part of Sati Devi

The last point would obviously raise some questions like why just the chest part and how did that part end up there. It has a proper story in Hindu mythology behind it that I would describe here in my words. It goes something like this:

Apparently Sati's father was throwing a party to all the gods (Guys! The drinks are on me tonight!) and he purposely did not invite Shiva because a) He didn't like him, b) He was a Rishi and not god, and the party was strictly for gods only, c) he wanted to insult Shiva. Sati came to know about her dad's party and also that he didn't invite Shiva due to some unjustifiable reasons, and felt pissed off and embarrassed that her hubby was insulted, and in turn she was insulted. She could not take this embarrassment and destroyed herself in fire (that's how the Sati system came into picture). Learning that his wife has committed suicide, Shiva got angry, carried Sati's body along with him, and did his dirty dancing, the Taandav Nritya, because of which the world was about to get destroyed. (Death by dance it shall be!)

Vishnu came to the rescue of the world with his Sudarshan Chakra and cut Sati's body into three parts, viz. the head, the chest and the rest. Now Shiva was carrying all these parts of his dead wife with him and trying to find a cure. On his way he happened to stumble (or couldn't balance all the three pieces) and dropped one piece of her body at every sacred location where there is Sati's temple today. One of these locations is Kunjapuri, where rests the chest. Interesting na?

We had been giving our guides enough hints that we wanted to try the one thing people come to Rishikesh for. Baba Ka Prasad! So they gave us a taste of how it is. Atop the Kunjapuri hill, they handed over a cigarette filled with tobacco and Ganja (Marijuana) to us. We lit it and had a couple of drags. The smell was peculiar and the taste was good, but the effect was negligent (may be they added just a small amount of marijuana). Looking at this the guides told us that they'll get better version of prasad in the evening for us.


The First Boredom

The sunrise view was to be followed by a 16 km downhill trek through the Narendranagar hills. Manish's leg was sprained and so he, along with Roopali, took the car back to the hotel. Gayatri and Faheem had not joined us for the sunrise, so the downhill trek was done by Pedro, Nanu, Gaury and me, and the two guides. This trek was horrible, since it involved just walking down the hill. No hurdles and, to add to the frustration, the whole path was covered with small chipped stones that made the ankles twist every now and then. Gaury came down with a swollen leg and we teased her saying she is carrying the disease of Elephantiasis. That's about the trek. I don't wanna describe it further.


The 'Cloud 9' Feeling

We had told are guides that the last event had been a complete mood spoiler. So do something that will cheer us up again. Bring some good Baba ka Prasad for us (We always like to try different stuff that makes people go woo. We just try such stuff once, so don't think of us as Charasis). They came back with the real thing. Charas! Radhe prepared five cigarettes, with every successive cigarette having double the quantity of Cannabis in it. The volunteers (or the people interested in trying) were three from our gang (including me) along with Vijay and Radhe.

First round begun. It begun with Radhe doing some ritual with the cigarette and remembering Lord Shiva. It was funny to see that these villagers remember God even before having a Sutta (by the way, Shiva used to smoke weed. FYI!). The smell was quite differentiable from other cigarette and marijuana. And of course, the taste was strong too and it tickled the taste buds.


First round was easy to handle. The next one begun. Now the kick started coming in. My palms had become cold and sweaty. I turned to Batla Danny (name changed ... LOL!) and saw his face was getting reddish. I turned to my other side and noticed Shahrukh's (name changed ... again) eyes were red. Second round complete. Shahrukh decided to throw the towel and sneaked out making an excuse of dinner. Third round begun. My hands were completely cold by now, and I was feeling hard to pull up my eye lids and keep my eyes open. It was like some 100 grams of weight hanging from my eye lids. Since it was my first experience (and I swear my last. Don't want this experience again) with Cannabis, I decided to quit after the third round and went in to have dinner. As I got up, I realized that I was as high as I am after two-three large pegs whiskey (that is not much for me, my friends know that). I quietly sat in a corner of the bedroom, to analyze how much high I was, and started to eat my dinner. Soon after the fourth round Batla Danny gave up and came in to have his dinner. His face was red like an apple. He kept saying that he wasn't that high, but everyone could see how he was completely focused on his biryani and he finished one whole plate in six to seven minutes.

Later on in the night, when the guides ate the dinner and left, I came out in the hall and slept on the couch. My throat had gone completely dry and I felt the urge for water in my body. I drank almost 1.5 liters without having to pee even once. I knew that my bladder would be about to burst by the morning. As I was sleeping on the couch, I started feeling depressed and sick. It was like I am in a hospital bed down with some illness. It was one feeling I never wish to have again. But it was fun trying it out.


The Second Boredom

Next day we went to Rajaji national Park, where the majorly cited animals are wild elephants and leopards. But our luck with wild animals has never been good. All we could see was deers and elephant shit. When we came out, the driver of our rented car told us that it's all just hoax. You can see some elephants, but leopards? Never. 'Sab paise kamaane ke dhandhe hai!'. True. We wasted around more than Rs. 2000/- for this ride to see nothing but shit. If you decide on a visit to Rishikesh, safely remove this place from your list. No further comments.


The Camp

From the Rajaji NP, we went to our Camping area at Shivpuri. We were loving this place very much as it was just next to the river stream, on the other side of which was a volleyball court. The weather and the scenic beauty of this place added more taste to the stay. We had already started getting positive vibes about the place and everyone was sure that tonight's gonna be a good night!



Morning<------------------------------->Evening

The evening started with a couple of hours being spent playing volley ball. The volley ball court was on the other side of the river stream (just a couple of bamboos kept as a bridge to cross over it). We played many rounds with even the local team joining in to show their talent. It was amazing.


We then headed to the camping area where we played some other activity games until the dinner was served. There was chicken for dinner. Yes, since this was a camp area, away from the buzz of the Rishikesh city, you do get non-vegetarian food on request. The food was good and spicy. The dinner was done under the moonlight in the warmth of the bonfire. We had been allotted four small tents, each with two beds. The tents were cozy and the blankets were good enough to make you survive through the night.

The next morning we first headed uphill, some 12-15kms upwards. We stopped at a rock, some 25 feet in height. This would be the rock where we would try our skills at rock climbing. It was a team effort! Though each of us was climbing the rock individually, the support from the others on the ground watching played an important factor in everyone's tasks of rock climbing and rappelling, without which it would have been a much difficult task to climb the rock.


After the rock climbing session, we headed towards our final ascent in the mountains of Rishikesh, the starting pint of our 30 kms Rafting. This time we had eight of us, plus two guides Vijay and Radhe, plus two Rafting guides Veeru and a new chap. In all 12 people in a raft for 10. The raft was already carrying double the weight form the last one we tried a couple of days ago. On top of that, we had 2-3 people without a row. So they were just going to sit in the raft doing nothing, just adding more wight to the raft and making it more difficult to row. The first half of rafting route hardly had any rapids. But we did enjoy ourselves in the free surfing area. This is the area where the water current is swift and without any obstacles. You just have to dive into the river, and let yourself float with the support of life jacket. Even though the water was icy cold, it was quite relaxing. Even Roops dared to dive and get a feel of it.

The next half was the adventurous part. It had more rapids and we had already tried it once. It was a repeat telecast for us, while the new comers (Gayatri, Faheem and Gaury) got their first shot at the splashing cold waters of the Ganges.


Note: There is nothing great about the 30 kms rafting route, except for the fact that it has a longer free surfing route. Most of the rapids are on the second half of the route, which are covered in the 17 kms rafting route. So our suggestion would be go for the 17 kms route. You would not miss much.

After the end of rafting we spent some time to some Indian music played on guitar and flute by some foreigners near the river bank. A cute firangi chic and and one Indian kid were dancing to the music. Later on, we went to our rooms, took a bath and headed out to the market for dinner. This time we wanted to try something new. So we went to a restaurant called Tip-Top, opposite the Topiwala restaurant. It serves a good variety of cuisines from around the world. That too, at affordable prices.


The Night Laughs

After dinner, we headed to our hotel rooms for a final nap at Rishikesh. Our nights never end without something funny happening to one of us. It is always a good laughing session before we finally doze off and go to sleep. This time it was again provided by Pedro. Remember I described his ability to be at the wrong place at the wrong time? He somehow managed to do it again and keep up to his reputation. This time he was sleeping at the end of the bed, which was facing the wall where all the electrical switches were mounted. He had to get up twice to switch on/off the lights and increase/decrease the fan speed.

Just the previous day, when he was sleeping in Manish's room, he woke in the middle of the night from a nightmare saying 'Mujhe Chhod do! Mere paas paise nahi hai!'. Manish shook him to wake him up and asked what happened to which Pedro said, 'Kuch nahi. Kisiko bolna mat mai sapne me bol raha tha. Yeh room ki baat isi room me rehne de.' But we all like to screw and take
each other's case, so now, it's known to the world.


All good things come to an End

The next morning we woke up early to board our last rented vehicle of the trip, from Rishikesh to New Delhi. We were surprised and happy to see that our guides had arranged for a 12-seater vehicle, with loads our luggage space, at the price of a 8-seater vehicle. It was actually a goof up that benefited us. We had enough room to stand and walk around in the vehicle to free our legs, and also stretch our legs while sleeping.

GaribRath Yuva

We boarded our train to Mumbai. the train was Garibrath Yuva, which is a completely Chair car train. We had switched from Paschim Express to this train because Yuva would reach Mumbai in 15-16 hrs as compared to 29-30 hrs taken by Paschim express. but we did not considered the fact fact that it is still too much time to sit at one place, which would swell your ass to twice its original size. Within two hours, we started feeling the pain in our asses. And we were starving too.

Note: Garibrath Yuva is the worst train to travel in because:
1. It only has Chair car seating arrangement.
2. Luggage space is lesser that what we have in the local trains in Mumbai.
3. There is no Pantry.

The train does not stop at any station for more than two minutes. It was just the Kota junction, our last hope to get food, where the train was going to make a stop for 10 minutes. We made up a plan and decided who will get what from the station. We proceeded towards the head of the train, so that even if the train starts while we are buying stuff, we could still make it easily to our compartment, which was sixth or seventh from the engine. What we discovered was an oasis in the desert. There were three consecutive compartments that were completely empty, without a single booking. We asked the TTE and he told us that there was no Tatkaal booking at all for this journey. We were overjoyed. We had our dinner in one of the empty compartments, after which we secretly moved all our luggage from our jam-packed compartment to the 3 BHK spacious compartment. Each one of us then had three chairs to sleep on. It was a lottery. Gentle advice! Don't take the chance of traveling in this train hoping to find an empty compartment. It was sheer luck for us.


Last adventure before the End

The Garibrath Yuva has just 5-6 stops between Delhi and Mumbai. The first stop at Mumbai was Bandra. most of us stay in Borivali and were praying that the train hits a red signal somewhere near Borivali. The train hit a signal at Dahisar station. As the train was slowing down at the Dahisar station, Roopali got off the running train, since we were not sure whether the train would stop again at Borivali. Just as she got down, the train started picking up speed. Now we had no choice, but to somehow try and get off the train, along with our luggage.

I was standing a door behind the others. Faheem, Gayatri and Gaury were getting down at Bandra. So we took our chance. Manish and Pedro threw a couple of bags down on the platform. Meanwhile I jumped off the train and started collecting the bags thrown. Then Nanu, Pedro and Manish, all of them got down since the train was catching up speed. There were some bags still left in the train. But with the help of Gayatri and Faheem, we managed to get all the bags thrown on the platform. This stunt came with a warning: These stunts are performed by professionals. Do not try this at home!

Sachin came to pick us up at Dahisar station, and that ended the trip. It was a great trip and I hope you enjoyed my narration. My lack of work at office has played a big role in allowing me to find time and finish this write-up, covering most of the events during the trip.

We are planning our next trip to Bangkok, somewhere in November 2010 and Leh-Ladhak in July 2011.
As always, everyone's invited!


See you then! Adios!

Off to Chakki Bank

The previous places on our route, viz. Amritsar, Dalhousie and Dharamsala/McLeodganj had been just beyond the expectations. Little did we know that this extent of going beyond the expectations would be further stretched in Rishikesh.

The journey started in a rented car from Dharamsala to Chakki Bank (the station from where we were to catch our train to Rishikesh), where everyone enjoyed a good session of songs sung mainly by the back-benchers, Faheem, Gayatri and me. Rishikesh was gonna be a dry area, meaning no non-vegetarian food and no alcohol. So we decided to have some in the car on our way to Chakki Bank. It's hard to find Kingfisher in rural areas and so we had to quench our beer thirst with Haywards 5000. Pedro, after emptying two and a half cans (or Haywards 12500 as we call it), started feeling a buzz and went on laughing throughout for next thirty minutes until finally he peed and let the beer out of his body.

We reached the station a good one hour early and decided to have dinner at a nearby restaurant. The food was great there but more important the service was great. There was this little chap named Lucky who was serving us. We asked him what we can get in 10 minutes. He gave us precisely the menu that could be made available in 109 minutes. Roopali asked him whether the restaurant served Malai Kofta to which Lucky replied, 'Madam mil to jayega, but Kofta ka stuffing karne me time lagta hai aur phir pakne me bhi time lagega. Kum se kum 20 minute lag jayenge'. Impressed! On top of that, he knew the recipes for all the dishes. After finishing our dinner, we had a chat with the li'l fella. Turned out he scored 86% in SSC. Manish said 'Mumbai aaja, bahot aage jayega tu.' The kid was smart enough to come back with good reply, 'Sir, Bambai aayenge to bigadh jayenge. Wahaan aake aadmi paap karne lag jata hai. Hum yahin thik hai.'

We came back to the station, heavily stuffed, and waited for our train to arrive. Meanwhile, we played some new games on the station like passing a bag (with rollers) through two bottles kept at some distance. We attracted a good amount of crowd that gathered around us to look what we were doing. Apart from that the winner got a round of applause and a bugle salute from Nanu. The train arrived 30 minutes late. We boarded the train, played for a while and then went to sleep. This time the journey was going to be short, we would be in Rishikesh when we wake up the next morning.

Note: Rishikesh is a dry area, no alcohol and no non-veg. It just means it is not sold there. You can carry alcohol with you and drink inside your rooms, not publicly sitting outside in balcony and keeping it on display. Also, you can get alcohol and non-veg food just 2 kms away from Rishikesh in another city/village where it is not banned. Our guides were generous enough to go on their bikes and bring us whatever non-vegetarian food we demanded.
Similarly, Amritsar, or Punjab as a whole, and Dalhousie are a no smoking zone. You have to find proper corner to keep out from police view.


RishikHASH

The next morning, we were short of cigarettes, and as I am used to borrowing one from any stranger, I was looking for someone smoking at the door. Just then Faheem woke up and announce that he has one last cigarette. Great! We all (Faheem, Pedro, Nanu and me) gathered near the door to share the consolation prize. As we were smoking, there was a Fakir smoking something very peculiar and familiar to us, Charas! He caught us stag at him and said, 'Rishikesh ke Rishi, Zindagi Charas aur Nashe me Ghusi' (Most of the Fakirs and Babas are poets, of some weird kind). He then offered us the maal, but looking at his untidiness and uncleanliness, we turned down the offer.

We had already taken up a package deal for four days at Rishikesh and the guides were already waiting for us at the station when we arrived. Two Six-seater auto-rickshaws were ready for us to board. The guides took us through the Ram Jhula on to the other side of the Garhwal district, called the Pauri Garhwal. Our hotel had a good view of the Ganges, and the biggest rooms so far with a hall, a kitchen, a bedroom and a balcony. It was a proper flat.


View from our Balcony

Note: The Ganges river divides the district of Garhwal into two regions, Tehri Garhwal on the west side and Pauri Garhwal on the east. There are several tourists spots on both the sides of the Ganges river, and so you will have to go across Ram and Laxman Jhula several times. So do not spend much time taking pictures at the jhulas, since you'll get plenty of opportunities to do that.



Rishikesh is famous for four major things:

1. It is a highly spiritual place and hence you see a lot of foreigners living in this part
2. The Ganga of course (The Ganges river), which holds a high position in Hindu mythology
3. It is a great place for adventure sports, esp. White water rafting, Rock Climbing and Rappelling
4. Though it is banned, you will find almost easy access to Hashish (Grass), Charas (Cannabis) and Ganja (Marijuana)

All these things can not be covered over a weekend. You need at least a week to do justice to your visit to Rishikesh.

Our package included:
1. Stay at the Hotel for 4N/5D
2. 30km River rafting along with transport to the starting point
3. camp over night, with two meals and 1 breakfast (But they were very generous and gave us three meals)
4. Safari at Rajaji National Park
5. Two treks (water and snacks included)
All of the above included in a package of Rs. 28800/-. That is, Rs. 3600/- per person.


Neelkanth Trek

The first day was not included in our package deal and we had already decided to take rest for the day. But our guides (Vijay and Radhe) were quite some enthusiasts. They told us that we can do a small uphill trek to Neelkanth that day itself. So we agreed. Point of caution here: When the local people say it's a small trek, don't buy it on face value 'coz they are used to walking long distances. Always get a specific answer either in terms of minutes or in kilometers. Turned out the trek was 8 kilometers from the foot of the hill, the foot hill was again a couple of kilometers away from our hotel. And once you start the trek, there is no looking back. Not because you can't, but the trek is through a route where vehicles are not allowed. We somehow managed to creep up the hills, helping each other, and were completely exhausted by the time we reached up.



By the time we came down, it was dinner time. Our guide took us to the Topiwala restaurant, just in front of his office. The service was good, food was awesome, and the VFM was just super. Just imagine. Eight of us ... fulfilled with vegan food ... and the bill doesn't shoot up over 700 bucks. That's 700 bucks well spent! Since we all were tired from the overwhelming trek, we decided to sleep the next day to recover. So everyone woke up at their own convenience the next morning, sorry, afternoon. :)

Note: There is also a restaurant called Chotiwala, which is one of the famous restaurants in Rishikesh, but it is pointlessly expensive.

The next day we didn't have anything planned for the whole group, so we split up. Faheem, Gayatri and Gaury went on to check out the Laxman Jhula and surrounding temples (one of which had 14 floors), while the rest of the gang wanted to try a short rafting route to get ready for the big one coming up on Friday. The Jeep took us 17 kms upwards to the Shivpuri camp. The camps are basically a flat land with natural deposit of sand on the river banks. It was an amazing place with a picturesque view of the valley. Our rafting guide was Veeru and he was accompanied by a kid named Chintoo. Since it was our first experience of rafting in the Ganges, we had decided not to carry any cameras, but Gauri still handed over her camera as it was compact and sleek.

Note: The 17 km rafting costs not more than Rs. 300/- per person.


White Water Rafting

The guide gave us a quick crash course on the paddle movements and the calls he would be giving. A scream to cheer up: 'Ganga Mata ki Jai'! and we took off. The water was cold, and the weather wasn't that warm either, when we came across our first rapid. Rapids are parts of the river where the water is shallow due to which the current are strong and causes the water to wave up and down and thrash on the surrounding rocks. The raft banged against each wave in the rapid, which lifted it up almost 45 degrees upwards. Then suddenly the wave disappeared beneath the raft and sent it crashing down with a loud impact. It was thrilling! There are five to six such rapids, the best ones are at the beginning of the route. Half way through the route, our guide showed us the cliff from where they allow cliff-jumping. It was just two storey high and we thought of it as a cake walk. But as we stopped our raft there, climbed up the rock, and looked down the cliff, believe me we were petrified. The distance suddenly seemed like a mile and we started thinking of the impact. I can't talk about personal feeling of Nanu and Manish, but I know, it was the biggest achievement in my life. That is because I have never jumped into water from that height, and secondly, I am afraid of heights.

We were enjoying this rafting experience very much, but at the same time cursing ourselves that no one was around to take our snaps from the banks. Just then, as we were passing below the Laxman Jhula, you can call it luck, telepathy, god's grace, or sheer coincidence, the same time Gayatri, Gaury and Faheem were crossing over the Laxman Jhula. We were overflowing with joy I thanked anyone and everyone we could for getting this moment captured. We also showed our rafting skills by spinning are raft from right to left and back again.



Note: Make sure the Rafting guide is experienced and has knowledge about the names of the rapids that come your way. There are many interesting names like Three Blind Mice, Roller Coaster, Black Money, etc. and each has an interesting story about the choice of that name. These all names were given by a renowned mountaineer and explorer Edmund Hillary, who traveled in his motor boat against the current of the Ganges river during his expedition. All these stories add more interest to your Rafting experience.

In the evening, we went to witness the Ganga Aarti, which is carried out everyday somewhere around 1800 hrs. The Ganga Aarti is held in front of a temple of Shiva, where you'll find many idols of Lord Shiva, the biggest one sitting right outside the temple on a ramp over the Ganges. The main trustee of the temple, Muni Baba, performs the aarti. It takes around thirty minutes after which the bhajans start and lasts for a couple of hours.


We had our dinner, again at the Topiwala restaurant, and headed to our hotel rooms to end one more day at Rishikesh ... continued in Part 5.

Dharamsala & McLeodganj

Though Dharamsala is some 120 kms away from Dalhousie, the drive through the ghats takes more than four hours. We'd started at 1630 hrs and we reached McLeodganj at 2230 hrs (we are used to taking pee and tea breaks, which added a couple of hours to the journey). The temperature was not lower than Dalhousie, but it felt like 4-5 degrees below freezing point due to the gentle breezes that kept blowing in this part. I never knew I had good bargaining skills until I convinced the manager of the Sky Lark Hotel (at BhagsuNag, a kilometer away from McLeodganj) to slash the charges by 500 rupees. I just took his calculator, added some figures and told him to fit in that amount. In all we just paid 1350/- per day for two rooms (one with a double bed and the other with a double bed and a single bed) along with heaters. The rooms were the best so far in our trip, with long balconies (one could play box-cricket in there) and spacious bathrooms.

It was already 2300hrs and the hotel's kitchen was closed. So we headed to the McLeodganj market to look for a place to have dinner. There was this place called 'Excite' right in the center of the market with a roof-top restaurant. The place served Tibetan, Chinese, Punjabi and Continental cuisines; Drinks and Hookah too. Unfortunately we had reached there so late, that only some of the Chinese and Punjabi dishes could be made available. While the staff went busy preparing the food, we sipped on beers and sucked on a Hookah. I turned the pages of the menu and noticed a message 'We are lazy and take time to serve food'. Quite a straight-forward message to the customer so that he sets the right expectations. And they did stand to their words, it took an hour for them to get the food on our table (we were the only customers at that time, so the whole staff was serving us, still the delay). Moreover, after such a long wait, the food was another disappointment. It tasted rubbish. The hookah wasn't that great either. So overall, the place has nothing good about it.


Naddi

The next day we went a place called Naddi, which is 3-4 kms above BhagsuNag. The weather was chillier here due to strong winds and increase in altitude. We had a nature walk around the mountain admiring the scenic beauty of the snow-capped mountains and coniferous trees of the Dhauladhar range. I guess we also saw the highest peak of Dhauladhar range, called the Hanuman ka Tibba, but we could not confirm as there was no one around. There were bits of melting snow in our way by the road side. It did not snow at McLeodganj, but just a few kilometers above, at Naddi, it snowed a week back. We had tea and biscuits at Naddi and left for St. John's Church, near Dharamsala on the way to McLeodganj. By the way, did I mention that this was the first trip where we did not get decent tea even once? None of the places we went to knew how to make good tea. Some added more water, some added more sugar, while some didn't care to add sugar at all.



Small Church, Big History

I didn't know the history of St. John in the Wilderness until I googled it and James Bruce, a.k.a. Lord Elgin (Viceroy and Governer General of India in 1861), who rests in peace in the premises of the church. Turns out that the church building was built in 1852 and is one of the few buildings to have survived a major earthquake at Kangra a century back. also it is famous for it's stained glass from Belgium, which unfortunately we could not see since the church was closed. It also has a huge bell that was brought from England and installed in the premises. I don't understand why all this information is not mentioned anywhere at the church. This gives a complete new understanding and a new perspective to look around the building and admire the historic monument.




Mini Tibet


From the church we went to the Tibetan Monastery at McLeodganj. It is called Tsuglagkhang, the Dalai Lama's temple. It was a strange experience. We felt like foreigners in our own country. McLeodganj is full of Tibetans and as you enter the monastery, the concentration suddenly grows scarily stronger. But Tibetans are peaceful people, the same is evident through their 50-year
long non-violent struggle to free Tibet. There were huge golden idols of Buddha and some goddess inside the temple, where photography is prohibited. This monastery is a tourist attraction as it is the Dalai Lama's temple and just opposite to the temple is his office. Moreover, just behind the office building was his residence. We asked the security outside and he told us the Dalai Lama would be coming out on the evening of Losar, the New Year's Day, 14th Feb 2010. Until then he would not be coming out. Sadly, we were going to leave the next day and would not be able to catch a glimpse of him. There is also a Tibetan museum on the way to the temple. Unfortunately it was closed that day.

We also read about the Panchen Lama, Gedhun Choekyi Nyima, who has been taken into protective custody by the Chinese authorities, reasons unknown. Many of us, who do not know the process of appointing the Dalai Lama or Panchen Lama, believe that Panchen Lama would be taking the chair as the next Dalai Lama after the current (14th) Dalai Lama's death (even I used to think the same). The fact is, Panchen Lama is the next highest level after the Dalai Lama and not necessarily (and seldom the case) the next Dalai Lama. However, both play a role in finding the next Dalai Lama or Panchen Lama.




Out of the monastery, we all were hungry and I was desperately looking for a Tibetan restaurant. Funny thing is there are no Tibetan restaurants near the monastery (or at least we couldn't find one). We had to walk for 15 minutes to get to the market to find a place to eat. But the walk was worth it. We ended up at a place called Norling Restaurant. It serves a good variety of Chinese, Tibetan, Japanese and Korean food. The restaurant is also recognized by 'NDTV Good Times - Highway on my Plate' as one of the best eating joints. I decided to come there again the next day to try out some Japanese cuisine. We spent the rest of the evening wandering in the market. Roopali found an Ayurvedic Massage center where she got a foot massage. While returning we also paid a visit to the BhagsuNag temple just behind our hotel. The temple has a huge history that Roopali can explain better.

We had decided to leave the next day for Rishikesh, but we already had an extra day, and we loved the place so much that we decided to add another day at McLedoganj. This way, we could check out the Tibetan New Year celebrations and might get a chance to see Dalai Lama as well. So we called up Santji and paid him off that night itself and left the car.

Note: You do not need a vehicle to go around places in Dharamsala/McLeodganj. Most of the places are within 1-2 kms distance of each other. Besides, share autos and taxis are also available to visit farther places.


Girl down again!

Everyone was dying due to cold and the necessity of heat for our bodies was growing every minute. So bought some alcohol as a remedy. That night we discussed and debated on a variety of topics (and we don't remember what initiated the first, the next and the last topic). The topics ranged from Tele communication, optical fibers, China, Tibet, Dalai Lama, One Country Two Governments, yada yada. We were so pumped up and engrossed in the discussion that it would have required some disastrous event to make us stop. And that event was provided by Gaury. Gaury after doing a mix and match, felt tipsy, and wanted to use the bathroom. She opened the door and ... THUD! for the second time! This time even the splashing of water on her face was not able to wake her up. Surprisingly this time the situation was not that tense. Most of us were laughing and thinking of ways to get her back on the bed. Finally, it required all the five guys to lift her up and put her on the bed. It was one hell of a task.


The next day was a leisure day. We left the Hotel at 1400 hrs for the market. Everyone spread across in different directions. Roopali had already left for the market to buy some stoles. Manish and I selected a ladies top as a surprise gift for Roopali. Then we, along with Roopali went to the massage center. Nanu and Pedro started to look out for travel agents to hire a vehicle for Chakki Bank (our boarding station for the train to Rishikesh). Gaury, Gayatri and Fahim went out shopping in the market. While Manish and Roopali went in to have the massage, I decided to give another visit to the temple to check out the museum. But it was closed again. Turned out that the museum would be closed till the new year. That's one thing I regret missing to see.

We all had planned to gather back at the Norling Restaurant. This time I ordered Sukiyaki Chicken, a Japanese dish suggested by the waiter. It arrived with a sizzle in a flat base wok. It looked beautiful with perfectly cooked chicken surrounded by broccoli, pickled cabbage and onions, tofu, black mushrooms, tomatoes, red and green pepper, and some kind of sweet noodles. To add more colors and flavor, it was topped with a fried egg, sunny side up. Yummy! The rest of the gang ordered thukpas, thenthuks, Chinese noodles and fried rice.



Note: There are several massage centers in McLeodganj market offering various types of Ayurvedic, Kerala and Tibetan massages. Tibetan massages are the toughest and a bit painful due to the intensity of the massage. A massage would cost you somewhere from Rs. 250 - Rs. 600, depending on the type and body parts in the massage. We went to a place called Synergy Ayurvedic Massage Center. Everyone got at least one kind of massage there. The Masseuse named Purushottam was the one of the best masseuses there.

Losa and Valentine's Day Celebration

I had noticed fire crackers being sold in the market and I got a brilliant idea. Manish had not planned for a surprise on Valentines day for Roopali yet. So I whispered to Manish saying it would make a great surprise event, not just a gift but some fire crackers in the night when the clock struck twelve. We sealed the deal on the plan. While the rest of the gang, including me, went in for our scheduled massages in the evening. Pedro and Manish bought some fire crackers and handed over to me to keep them out of Roopali's sight. I added a jewel cracker to them and gave them all to the manager of our hotel to hide it until midnight. I also requested him to keep the terrace open to light up the crackers.


It was 2200 hrs then, and when I reached our room, everybody had already got cozy siting close to each other and watching 3 Idiots. By 2330 hrs, we finished the movie, had our dinner and one by one slowly started sneaking out of the room and going to the terrace to set up the crackers in place. Manish brought Roopali on the terrace by making up some reason (don't what reason he gave her, but I thought it would be a difficult task to get out on terrace in that chilling weather). As they both entered the terrace, there was a loud blast. We all were shocked, even the people who knew about crackers in place were shaken up by the boom. The cracker went up some 50 meters up in the air before it made a second blast and spread all over in the sky over our hotel. Strangely we were the only ones lighting the crackers and people from other hotel were wishing us 'Happy new year'. We all wished each other a Happy valentines Day, and Happy New Year too. Gayatri and Roopali cut the small cake we had bought and Manish gifted Roopali with the gift. Later on we went downstairs and lit some flower pot crackers.


Crazy & Funny Night


Back in our rooms, we were intrigued by the red illumination from the heater rod, which initiated the idea of taking innovative and creative photographs ... Horror poses! Check the same in my Facebook album. We also discovered an ability of Pedro that had gone unnoticed for a long time ... to be at the wrong place at the wrong time. That day he had switched his sleeping place to the side of the bed that is closer to the door. Nanu had happily given up the place since a heater was placed on the other side of the bed. I had already resigned the idea of getting into argument over places in bed, and hence took the center place on the bed. That night we had continuos knocking on the door, a couple of times by Gaury, then by Gayatri, and again a couple of times by Faheem. Pedro was and the peak of annoyance while Nanu, Roopali, Manish and I laughed so hard that our eyes were filled with tears.


The next day was the Tibetan New Year and the Valentines day. I wanted to check the celebrations at Tibetan temple, but most of us were game for the BhagsuNag falls somewhere behind our hotel. so five of us headed towards the falls, Gayatri and Faheem went to the market again, and Gaury attended the Tibetan New Year celebration at the monastery. Gaury's experience of the Tibetan culture is mentioned here.



This year, the Dalai Lama had requested the Tibetans not to celebrate the New Year, and hence the celebrations were limited to just some decorations and sugar idols.
The BhagsuNag have the best flow in the monsoons, but we could still get a pretty good view of the falls. The water in the falls comes directly from the melting glaciers and hence very clean.




Note: We missed out on seeing quite a few interesting places in Dharamsala, like the Norbulinka Institute and the Tea gardens, due to our laziness. Make sure you visit these places if you plan a trip to this part of India.

We wrapped up our visit to falls, packed our bags at the hotel and loaded it on the car we booked for a journey to Chakki Bank.

Next and the last destination - Rishikesh! ... continued in Part 4.